Shamballa Bracelets

In my role as Fashion Editor for the Bead Society of Great Britain I wrote this article for the last edition of the quarterly Bead Society Journal. It describes the religious origins of Shamballa Bracelets, set against the phenomena that the introduction of this style of bracelet has created in the worlds of fashion and celebrity. With the Journal safely in print and distributed I thought I would now share this piece with a broader audience.

Shamballa-style fashion bracelet with cut glass pavé beads

(Copyright Steven Bosworth / Flickr)

Shamballa Bracelets have in recent months gained the same huge popularity as the well established Pandora charm bracelets, reproducing themselves at a great rate across all market sectors, from high-quality investment jewellery to cheap and cheerful fashion pieces with a short life-span. The bracelets feature crystal encrusted orbs threaded onto cord and finished with macramé knots. They are popularly known as shamballa, pavé bracelets, disco ball bracelets or macramé bling bracelets, the latter names summing up their eye-catching feature beads. Locally, I can buy Chinese-made glass crystal bead bracelets from a market stall, high street fashion shops stock their versions (most likely also made in the Far East), or, if funds allow, I could indulge in a Tresor Paris crystal bracelet from a traditional family jeweller that has been trading in our town for over 250 years. The original design and concept, that has launched a myriad of imitations, originates from Danish jewellery company Shamballa Jewels. If imitation / emulation is indeed the sincerest form of flattery, then this company should be feeling the warmth of an infinite number of flatterers.

Shamballa Jewels Collection Spring / Summer 2012

(Reproduced by kind permission of Luke Freeman)

Shamballa Jewels is a jewellery company owned by two Danish brothers, Mads and Mikkel Kornerup. They launched their first jewellery range of high-end fine jewellery, including the Star of Shamballa Collection, in 2004. The jewellery was luxurious, exquisite, fashionable and discreet.  Tasteful, simply styled jewellery that could be worn with couture or with edgier fashions. The bracelets from the Star of Shamballa Collection consisted of spherical beads of precious and semi-precious materials threaded onto nylon macramé cords and finished with a sliding knot clasp. The range saw immediate success and was championed by French Vogue, many couture fashion houses and celebrities from the worlds of sport, film, music, as well as the stylish and the plain wealthy. To quote in part from the mission statement on the company’s website, Shamballa Jewels state their intention is

‘…to create jewels of the highest quality. Jewels which trigger curiosity and inspire to conversation. Jewels that will be passed on for generations.’

The price of the jewellery means it is only an option for the serious jewellery wearer / collector, with a full pavé bracelet of white gold set with 18ct diamonds currently on sale in London for £81,494.  If your budget is set lower you may like an ebony bead bracelet, featuring a bead and a lock of 18ct yellow gold for £1,854.00, or an amethyst and gold bracelet for £2,646.

A stack of Shamballa Jewels 'Star of Shamballa' bracelets with the Star icon visible

(Copyright Shamballa Jewels / Facebook)

The sequence of images above shows elements of making Shamballa Jewels bracelets

(Copyright Shamballa Jewels / Facebook)

However, despite the obvious luxury of the finished jewellery, the designs are based on spiritual ideals and a more fundamental outlook on life. Eastern culture has a strong influence on the designs created by Mads Kornerup. Many of the symbols that his designs incorporate are inspired by the iconography found in Tibetan and Nepal, and his work also draws upon Buddhist teachings and yoga. To quote again from the website of Shamballa Jewels:

‘The theme of the collections is the energy of creation, symbolized by the Star of Shamballa and the Thunderbolt (dorje). The Star represents the female creative energy of the universe and the Thunderbolt the male firepower of creation. The two symbols are present throughout the collection as a red thread, embedded or carved within the gold, and surrounded with precious gemstones.  By wearing either symbol, one invites the possibility of connecting to the energy of creation.’ Mads Kornerup also states: ‘When formulating the designs, my goal is to remind the mind and body of its natural ability to open and heal.’ The star symbol is intended to communicate to the wearer the metaphysical fact that the human body and a star in the sky are made from the same matter, and that both emanate heat and light.  Like a star we contain great energy and we can shine.'

The structure of the Shamballa Jewels bracelet is derived from the Buddhist Mala, a string of prayer beads used to focus awareness during meditation or chanting, and to assist in the counting of mantras.  Traditionally a red cord holds the beads together and this is symbolic of the bloodline of the Buddha and the lineage of his teachings. A full mala contains 108 beads and a wrist mala 27 (you count your way through the beads three times to reach a total of 108). In addition to the beads used to mark each repeated mantra, there is also a meru / mountain / Guru bead. This is a larger bead used to mark the start and finish of each rotation around the circumference of the mala, there may also be a tassel at this point. Whilst many mala are made of modest natural materials such as rudraksha seeds, sandalwood or bone, semi-precious stones may also be used for both their associations with different deities or for their talismanic values. Crystal may be used to inspire clarity of thought and to strengthen and transmit positive energy. Shamballa Jewellery bracelets use many semi-precious materials so they also harness natural spiritual energies to benefit the wearer, although precious metals such as white gold are used simply for their own beauty and intrinsic value.

An image of mala for sale in India, including rudraksha seed necklaces and, to the right of shot, rudraksha seeds still on the branch

(Copyright Meena Kadri / Flickr)

Photo of Buddhist monk in Bhutan with prayer wheel and mala

(Copyright Steve Evans / Flickr)

There does seem some irony in the fact that a Buddist prayer tool has been turned into both a luxury accessory worn by the wealthy as a symbol of their spiritual values and as a frivolous fashion item worn as a ‘bit of bling’. 

As Shamballa Jewels bracelets attracted the attention of fashion leaders they were soon emulated by other jewellery design houses – for example, Tresor Paris, a brand formed by the Hasbani family, well-known in the jewellery industry as diamond dealers. Tresor Paris jewellery consists of good quality macramé threaded bracelets featuring beads of carved magnetite and beads studded with genuine crystal (rather than diamonds). Colours are bright and appealing, the bracelets worn and endorsed by popular celebrities. Tresor Paris market themselves to younger, image-conscious consumers who are prepared to pay around £150 for a bracelet For those unable or unwilling to pay this, then high-street fashion stores quickly produced their own take on the shamballa bracelet so the shamballa bracelet ‘look’ disseminated right down to teen shoppers who want to emulate their favourite rappers or reality soap stars. Next, for example, sell a range called Shimla Jewellery (‘Taking its name from the Shimla Valley set in the Himalayas, this range of jewellery captures the magical and spiritual feeling of the wearer’ – sound familiar?).

Alternatively, for a truly personal interpretation, there is always the option to make your own version of the style, using large rounds and stringing them onto cotton cord for a bracelet that could be made to match a favourite outfit. The macramé style construction of the bracelets means they are simple and quick to make unlike some costume jewellery. A quick look at a number of bead shops will demonstrate that the shamballa trend has influenced the current stock of beads, with large ranges of Chinese and Czech glass pavé beads to select from and other beads with a hole large enough to accommodate the cord. Independent jewellery maker, Jayne Hussey of Jewellery by JH, has imaginatively created bracelets using miracle beads in place of pavé beads making full use of their reflective qualities and jewel-like colours. Strung on cotton cord recycled from packaging they are everyday wearable pieces of jewellery that exemplify how high fashion becomes something that we can all take part in.

Shamballa-style fashion bracelets with miracle beads, by Jayne Hussey of Jewellery by JH

(Copyright Jayne Hussey)

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Jewellery Chain A to Z

A GLOSSARY OF JEWELLERY CHAIN FROM A to Z

This Glossary of Jewellery Chain combines a simple black and white illustration alongside a description for each style of jewellery chain available for use in your jewellery making.

Unfortunately, there seems to be no agreed naming convention for the different styles of jewellery chain manufactured within the jewellery chain making industry, nor with jewellery chain supplies. For this reason there is a degree of repetition within this Jewellery Chain Glossary as it details each name variation and jewellery chain style and then cross references these entries for the sake of completeness.

ANCHOR CHAIN

Is one of the classic jewellery chain forms and the link chain most people would describe with ease if asked. It is characterised by uniformly sized repeating oval links which are arranged alternatively in a horizontal and then vertical orientation, with a vertical bar in the middle of each link. Because of the simplicity of its links it is one of the strongest types of jewellery chain and it is therefore no surprise that it has the same traditional design as used to anchor large ships in port. This chain is also known as Marine Chain. Variations of this chain design include Flat Anchor Chain where the outer surfaces of the individual links are flattened off by Diamond Cutting, Round Anchor Chain where the outer surfaces are slightly rounded and Maritime Chain where only every other link is an anchor link. 

An illustration showing a length of Flat Anchor Chain

BALL CHAIN

Ball Chain is composed of tiny spheres of metal rather than open links. These spheres or balls can be solid or hollow to reduce weight. They can be fixed at regular intervals along the length of the chain, or alternatively immediately adjacent to each other. It typically has it own snap fastening, with the larger steel versions of this chain more often used to hold ID cards than for jewellery. This type of jewellery making chain is also known as Bead Chain and Pelline Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of simple, evenly spaced, Ball Chain

BAR CHAIN

Is composed of small links or jump rings separated by metal bar links which can be curved, decorative, elongated, shaped, twisted, hollow, solid or a combination of these. This type of jewelry chain is also know as Link And Bar Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Bar Chain

BARLEYCORN CHAIN

Is formed of long thin teardrop shaped links that all point in the same direction. The join of each link is like a tiny hinge, meaning this style of chain is not particularly flexible. 

An illustration showing a length of Barleycorn Chain

BEAD CHAIN

Bead Chain is composed of tiny spheres of metal rather than open links. These spheres or balls can be solid or hollow to reduce weight. They can be fixed at regular intervals along the length of the chain, or alternatively immediately adjacent to each other. It typically has it own snap fastening with the larger steel versions of this chain more often used to hold ID cards than for jewellery. This type of jewellery making chain is also known as Ball Chain and Pelline Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of simple, evenly spaced, Bead Chain

BEADING CHAIN

Can be either a fine tubular Link Chain which is thin enough to fit through standard bead holes, or alternatively a fine crimpable chain similar in style to Snake Chain which can be used with crimps to secure the beads along its length. This second type of chain is also known as Crimpable Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of crimpable Beading Chain

BELCHER CHAIN

Is similar in style to Trace Chain but rather than having uniform links they are wider than they are thick, whilst in its finest form it is known as Baby Belcher Chain. This jewellery chain is also known as Rolo Chain.

An illustration showing a length of Belcher Chain

BIRDCAGE CHAIN

Is an intricate, closely linked sequential chain design which has ancient origins dating back to the 5th Century. Made of either oval or round links the resulting chain is very soft and flexible with an elegant drape. The links are used in pairs, with a vertical pair joined by a horizontal pair to a vertical pair. The final pair in this sequence is then folded back past the middle section, with the middle section then opened upwards and downwards to both lock the folded back pair in place, as well as opening up an anchor point for the next sequence of three paired links. The result is a chain with a very detailed rope like appearance and texture. It is available in both as a flat and round styles, as well as a graduated form with the chain width becoming larger toward the centre of a necklace for example. Because of it’s early origins it is know by many other names including Byzantine Chain, Idiot’s Delight Chain and King’s Braid Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate Birdcage Chain

BIKE LINK CHAIN

This chain closely resembles the link arrangement in a bicycle chain (minus the oil!) with square shaped metal links secured together with a bar. Because of its linear link pin construction it is not a very flexible chain but it is striking in its design. 

An illustration showing a length of Bike Link Chain

BISMARCK CHAIN

This chain resembles a chain link fence but with a much tighter mesh arrangement. It starts as run of two Cable Chains or Curb Chains whose sides are then neatly soldered together to form a parallel length of links. 

An illustration showing a length of soldered Bismarck Chain

BOSTON LINK CHAIN

This chain is named after the American city. It is a soldered cable chain that has then been processed using a hammer die, a process also known as Swedging. This elongates each link and squares them off creating a box like profile on all four sides of the chain. 

An illustration showing a length of boxy Boston Link Chain

BOX CHAIN

Is much loved for its geometric simplicity. It is made from round wire rolled flat before being formed into square links that form open boxes or cubes, giving it a sturdy yet classically smooth, sleek and uniform appearance. This jewelry making chain is also known as a Briolette Chain, Square Link Chain and Venetian Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Box Chain

BRAZILIAN CHAIN

Is made up of smooth round metal plates or bands with a slight curve at their mid point. They are tightly joined together to form a continuous flexible tube reminiscent of a snakeskin due to a slight zigzag effect. It has a virtually closed surface profile which makes for a very elegant and flexible chain perfect for displaying a pendant from. Unlike Omega Chain there is no underlying wire or mesh to support these plates. This jewelry making chain is also known as Hexagon Chain, Round Maille Chain, Star Weave Chain but most commonly Snake Chain.

An illustration showing a length of Brazilian Chain

BRIOLETTE CHAIN

Is much loved for its geometric simplicity. It is made from round wire rolled flat before being formed into square links that form open boxes or cubes, giving it a sturdy yet classically smooth, sleek and uniform appearance. This jewelry making chain is more commonly known as Box Chain, Square Link Chain or Venetian Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Briolette Chain

BYZANTINE CHAIN

Is an intricate, closely linked sequential chain design which has ancient origins dating back to the 5th century. Made of either oval or round links the resulting chain is very soft and flexible with an elegant drape. Either round or oval links are used in pairs, with a vertical pair joined by a horizontal pair to another vertical pair. The final pair in this sequence is then folded back past the middle section, with the middle section then opened upwards and downwards to both lock the folded back pair in place. This also provides an anchor point for the next sequence of three paired links. The result is a chain with a very detailed rope like appearance and texture. It is available in both as a flat and round styles, as well as a graduated form with the chain width becoming larger toward the centre of a necklace for example. Because of it’s early origins it is know by many other names including Birdcage Chain, Idiot’s Delight Chain and King’s Braid Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate Byzantine Chain 

‘C’ LINK CHAIN

Also know as C Chain this chain style is made up of solid ‘c’ shaped sections that fit into one another in a repeating pattern. It is designed to lie flat and is noted for its flexibility when compared against other flat profile chains such as Herringbone Chain. This chain can be further enhanced with bevelled edges as well as engraving on the individual links, including classical vertical lines of varying depths and thicknesses. 

An illustration showing a length of C Link Chain

CABLE CHAIN

This is the most common type of jewellery chain. It is formed of individual oval or round links interlocked in a uniform pattern, with each link lying at ninety degrees to the next. Each section of a Cable Chain is exactly the same shape and size throughout giving it a simple but classic look. Variations on this design include Double Link Chain or Parallel Link Chain as well as the use of rectangular links, square links and links that alternate in size. This chain is also known as Link Chain.

An illustration showing a length of Cable Chain

CHARM CHAIN

Is used to make Charm Bracelets. In practice any chain can be used for this purpose. However, this specific chain makes use of round, thin wire links joined together in the same way that cable and anchor chains are. But in this case each link is made of three layers of wire, joined to the next three links but not to each other. This provides lots of anchor points for charms to be attached whilst having a strong but open structure to allow these decorative objects to hang freely.

COBRA CHAIN

Is a basic Cable Chain that has been hammered or Swaged into a chain with flat triangular links.

An illustration showing a length of Cobra Chain

CRIMPABLE CHAIN

Can be either a fine tubular Link Chain which is thin enough to fit through standard bead holes, or alternatively a fine crimpable chain similar in style to Snake Chain which can be used with crimps to secure the beads along its length. This second type of chain is also known as Beading Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Crimpable Chain

CRINKLE CHAIN

Is an example of a Fancy Chain with an attractive wavy design. This particular design of chain is also known as Peanut Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of decorative Crinkle Chain

CUBAN LINK CHAIN

Is a Cable Chain with oval shaped links but with added decorative detail in the form of a twisting rope like pattern cut into each link. 

An illustration showing a length of Cuban Link Chain 

CURB CHAIN


Is a variation of Cable Chain with uniformly sized round or oval links but these are twisted and often Diamond Cut so that they lie flat along a surface. This form of chain has the greatest variety of widths, ranging from a few millimetres up to a couple of centimetres. 

An illustration showing a length of Curb Chain

DIAMOND CUTTING

Is not a chain in itself but a production process applied to lengths of chain to enhance their appeal. Diamond tipped cutting tools are used to create a pattern of fine sharp cuts on each chain link so that each element of the chain catches the light to a far greater extent than a standard flat surface. This process is also known as Diamond Milling. 

DIAMOND MILLING

See above

DOUBLE CABLE CHAIN

Is similar to Cable Chain but instead of a repeating pattern of single links it consists of a repeating pattern with two links lying parallel to each other linking directly to a second set of links lying in parallel. A variation of this style is known as Parallel Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Double Cable Chain

ELONGATED CABLE CHAIN


Has the same basic structure as a standard Cable Chain but use stretched links rather than round links. It makes for a very attractive light chain with an open appearance. 

An illustration showing a length of open Elongated Cable Chain

ESPIGA CHAIN

Translated from Spanish the word espiga means wheat. This intricate symmetrical chain is made from small figure of eight links which give it an almost square, plaited profile. This chain is also known as Spiga Chain or Wheat Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate Espiga Chain

FANCY CHAIN

ls a catch all description for any decorative variation of a standard chain type. By way of an example, a Trace Chain formed of heart-shaped links would be described and sold as Fancy Chain. Other decorative features might include unusual link designs or the additional of dangles. 

An illustration showing a length of Fancy Chain in the form of circular disc links

FIGARO CHAIN

Like Curb Chain, this chain has flattened twisted links but does not have one uniform link size or shape. Typically it will have between one and five shorter links alternating between a longer link, creating an attractive repeating pattern. This type of chain originated in Italy.

An illustration showing a length of Figaro Chain

FIGOGUCCI CHAIN

Is a variation of Marine Chain but with twisted Diamond Cut oval links and the dividing bar in the middle of each link. It lies flat on a surface like Curb Chain. 

FIGURE OF 8 CHAIN

Is made up of flat lying oval links that are connected by a smaller, twisted link shaped like an ‘8’. This chain is also known as Infinity Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Figure of Eight Chain

FILIGREE CHAIN

Is a style of long Cable Chain links or long Curb Chain links with added decoration in the form of a Florentine Pattern giving this chain a lace like or filigree finish. 

An illustration showing a length of Filigree Chain

FLAT CABLE CHAIN

Is a style of Cable Chain that has flat sided vertical links rather then rounded metal links. 

An illustration showing a length of Flat Cable Chain

FOB CHAIN

Is a short length of finished chain which was traditionally used to secure a pocket watch to a gentleman’s waistcoat. At the other end of the chain to the pocket watch was a bar or decorative ornament which would be placed through a button hole to secure the watch in place. These are now much sought after for use as necklaces and charm bracelets. 

FOXTAIL CHAIN

Uses a Loop Chain link made up of two rows of slanted oval links connected by a series of flat rings running down the chain’s centre. Each row of links faces the other at a 45 degree angle. This creates a braided or woven effect with a directional grain and fullness which gives the appearance of the hairs on a fox’s tail. This chain can be Hammered or Swaged into a square profile or Diamond Cut. 

An illustration showing a length of Foxtail Chain

FRENCH ROPE CHAIN

Is made from machine flattened wire with each wire link woven into the next link without the benefit of solder. 

An illustration showing a length of French Rope Chain

HERRINGBONE CHAIN

Is made up multiple rows of ‘v’ shaped links that lie entirely flat giving it a fluid quality when worn. The direction of these links alternates with each new row creating the herringbone pattern. The rows themselves can also be laid out in different coloured links, for example to create a tricolour effect. Thin strands of Herringbone Chain can be twisted or even plaited together to provide a greater visual effect. 

An illustration showing a length of Herringbone Chain

HEXAGON CHAIN

Is made up of smooth round metal plates or bands with a slight curve at their mid point. They are tightly joined together to form a continuous flexible tube reminiscent of a snakeskin due to a slight zigzag effect. It has a virtually closed surface profile which makes for a very elegant and flexible chain perfect for displaying a pendant from. Unlike Omega Chain there is no underlying wire or mesh to support these plates. This jewelry making chain is also known as Brazilian Chain, Round Maille Chain, Star Weave Chain and most commonly Snake Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Hexagon Chain

HOOK CHAIN

In Britain this chain may put you in mind of a Victorian style toilet with a high wall mounted cistern with brass pull chain! This chain is very simple in design having a round link with two folded back ends forming the hook that links into the next link. It is available in a variety of finishes as well as colours. 

An illustration showing a length of Hook Chain

IDIOT’S DELIGHT CHAIN

Is an intricate, closely linked sequential chain design which has ancient origins dating back to the 5th century. Made of either oval or round links the resulting chain is very soft and flexible with an elegant drape. Either round or oval links are used in pairs, with a vertical pair joined by a horizontal pair to another vertical pair. The final pair in this sequence is then folded back past the middle section, with the middle section then opened upwards and downwards to both lock the folded back pair in place. This also provides an anchor point for the next sequence of three paired links. The result is a chain with a very detailed rope like appearance and texture. It is available in both as a flat and round styles, as well as a graduated form with the chain width becoming larger toward the centre of a necklace for example. Because of it’s early origins it is know by many other names including Birdcage Chain, Byzantine Chain and King’s Braid Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate Idiot’s Delight Chain

INFINITY LINK CHAIN

Is made up of flat lying oval links that are connected by a smaller, twisted link shaped like an ‘8’. This chain is also known as Figure Of Eight Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Infinity Chain

KING’S BRAID CHAIN

Is an intricate, closely linked sequential chain design which has ancient origins dating back to the 5th century. Made of either oval or round links the resulting chain is very soft and flexible with an elegant drape. Either round or oval links are used in pairs, with a vertical pair joined by a horizontal pair to another vertical pair. The final pair in this sequence is then folded back past the middle section, with the middle section then opened upwards and downwards to both lock the folded back pair in place. This also provides an anchor point for the next sequence of three paired links. The result is a chain with a very detailed rope like appearance and texture. It is available in both as a flat and round styles, as well as a graduated form with the chain width becoming larger toward the centre of a necklace for example. Because of it’s early origins it is know by many other names including Birdcage Chain, Byzantine Chain, and Idiot’s Delight Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate King’s Braid Chain

LINK CHAIN

This is the most common type of jewellery chain. It is formed of individual oval or round links interlocked in a uniform pattern, with each link lying at ninety degrees to the next. Each section of a Link Chain is exactly the same shape and size throughout giving it a simple but classic look. This chain is also known as Cable Chain.

An illustration showing a length of Link Chain

LINK AND BAR CHAIN

Is composed of small links or jump rings separated by metal bar links which can be curved, decorative, elongated, shaped, twisted, hollow, solid or a combination of these. This type of jewellery chain is also know as Bar Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Link And Bar Chain

LONG AND SHORT CHAIN

Is a chain made up of one long link alternating with a series of shorter links. The shape of the links is consistent throughout the chain but the chain itself can formed from round, oval, square, rectangular or other shaped links. This style of chain also falls within the realms of the Figaro Chain as well as Fancy Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Long And Short Chain

MARINE CHAIN

Has oval links with a dividing bar soldered in the middle of each link. This chain is also known as Anchor Chain. A variation of this jewellery chain is Figogucci Chain which has twisted Diamond Cut links. 

An illustration showing a length of Marine Link Chain

MARQUIS CHAIN

The name for this chain comes from a fancy cut of gemstone, typically a diamond, forming an elongated oval shape with pointed ends. This design is believed to have been named after the Marquise de Pompadour who was the mistress of Louis XIV. The chain design follows the same elongated oval shape as the gemstone cut with a simple join between links to maintain this chains clean lines. 

An illustration showing a length of Oval Fisheye Marquis Chain

MESH CHAIN

Has a fabric like quality with very fine wire used to weave the chain. There are a number of production methods including Milanese Mesh Chain and Stocking Mesh Chain. The first is produced by weaving wire into tubular or flat profiles, whilst the second is produced using a knitting process with needles generating a continuous and seamless tube of mesh chain in the same way stockings used to be made. 

An illustration showing a length of flat Mesh Chain

NUGGET CHAIN

This chain starts life as a standard Serpentine Chain which is then soldered and hammered into an interlocking ‘s’ design, before being twisted to create the appearance of a nugget. This chain is also known as Tinsel Chain and Twisted Serpentine Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Nugget Chain

OMEGA CHAIN

A wide chain that is distinguished from other chains by the structure of the links or plates that form the chain. Small individual metal plates are aligned next to one another and crimped to an underlying mesh substructure. This type of chain is popular for its overall strength and its reflective qualities, as the chains texture makes it extremely shiny. Omega Chains are traditionally flat in profile although rounded variations of the chain can be found. They can also be reversible. 

An illustration showing a length of Omega Chain

PANTHER CHAIN

ls a flat chain with a surface design that resembles three rectangular paving bricks lying above each other with the centre brick offset one half brick to the side. The offset brick is then connected to the space left by the offset brick on the next link in the chain using a pin. These bricks can also be rhombus shaped like the diamond in a deck of laying cards. 

An illustration showing a length of Panther Chain

PARALLEL CHAIN

Is similar to Cable Chain but instead of a repeating pattern of single links it consists of a repeating pattern with two links lying parallel to each other linking directly to a second set of links lying in parallel. This chain is also known as Double Cable Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Parallel Chain

PEANUT CHAIN

Is an example of a Fancy Chain with an attractive wavy design. This particular design of chain is also known as Crinkle Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of shaped Peanut Chain

PELLINE CHAIN

Pelline Chain is composed of tiny spheres of metal rather than open links. These spheres or balls can be solid or hollow to reduce weight. They can be fixed at regular intervals along the length of the chain, or alternatively immediately adjacent to each other. It typically has it own snap fastening, with the larger steel versions of this chain more often used to hold ID cards than for jewellery. This type of jewellery making chain is also known as Ball Chain or Bead Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of simple, evenly spaced, Pelline Chain

POPCORN CHAIN

Is made of identical machine stamped segments of flat metal in much the same manner as Snake Chain. The metal segments are hollow and can be flat, rounded or concave. 

An illustration showing a length of Popcorn Chain

PRINCE OF WALES CHAIN

Is made of small circular links, where each link has no less than four other links connected to it, forming a twisted metal chain. The resulting chain resembles a rope and is extremely strong due to the additional connectivity between chain links. 

An illustration showing a length of Prince Of Wales Chain

RING AND CONNECTOR CHAIN

Is a chain made up of elongated links connected by round links or jump rings. 

An illustration showing a length of Ring And Connector Chain

ROLO CHAIN

Is made up of alternating oval or round links. These links are typically smaller in length and thicker in girth than cable chain links, and are flat on the inside, giving the chain a heavy sturdy appearance. This type of chain is popular for use as Charm Bracelets. This jewellery chain is also known as Belcher Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Rolo Chain

ROPE CHAIN

Has the appearance of two, or more, twisted strands of chain spiralled together. It is created by weaving together rows of metal links to resemble a thick two stranded rope. Some rope chains combine two different types and colours of metal. 

An illustration showing a length of Rope Chain

ROUND LINK CHAIN

Is a simple uniform chain combining round open links or soldered links. 

An illustration showing a length of Round Link Chain

ROUND MAILLE CHAIN

Is made up of smooth round metal plates or bands with a slight curve at their mid point. They are tightly joined together to form a continuous flexible tube reminiscent of a snakeskin due to a slight zigzag effect. It has a virtually closed surface profile which makes for a very elegant and flexible chain perfect for displaying a pendant from. Unlike Omega Chain there is no underlying wire or mesh to support these plates. This jewelry making chain is also known as Brazilian Chain, Hexagon Chain, Star Weave Chain and most commonly Snake Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Hexagon Chain

SAN MARCO CHAIN

Is made up of long and rounded links which somewhat resemble a puffed grain of rice with a flat bottom. These individual links are arranged next to each other at a forty five degree angle and attached to each other at the bottom by sturdy flat pins set at an opposing angle. 

An illustration showing a length of San Marco Chain

SATURN CHAIN

Is composed of small round links punctuated with filled beads that look like orbiting planets or moons adding interest and texture to the chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Saturn Chain

SCROLL CHAIN

Is produced by a dedicated machine which uses two separate lengths of wire fed from opposite directions to create the initial scroll which is then soldered. The chain can then be Hammered or Diamond Cut. 

An illustration showing a length of Scroll Chain

SERPENTINE CHAIN

Is composed of hammered ‘s’ shaped links that are laid next to each other with another identical set of links laid in parallel below the first and connected together. 

An illustration showing a length of Serpentine Chain

SINGAPORE CHAIN

Is constructed using a series of flat Diamond Cut chain links. Several of these links are interwoven to form a diamond shape, and then in turn these diamond shaped links are twisted and flattened to form a chain. This design results in a chain with links that reflect light from different angles, giving the chain a sparkling appearance. 

An illustration showing a length of Singapore Chain

SNAKE CHAIN

Is made up of smooth round metal plates or bands with a slight curve at their mid point. They are tightly joined together to form a continuous flexible tube reminiscent of a snakeskin due to a slight zigzag effect. Its virtually closed surface profile makes for a very elegant and flexible chain perfect for displaying a pendant from. Unlike Omega Chain there is no underlying wire or mesh to support these plates. This jewelry making chain is also known as Brazilian Chain, Round Maille Chain, Hexagon Chain and Star Weave Chain.  

An illustration showing a length of Snake Chain

SPIGA CHAIN

This chain is made from small figure of eight links which give it an almost square, plaited profile. This jewellery making chain is also known as Espiga Chain and Wheat Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate Spiga Chain

SQUARE LINK CHAIN

Is much loved for its geometric simplicity. It is made from round wire rolled flat before being formed into square links that form open boxes or cubes, giving it a sturdy yet classically smooth, sleek and uniform appearance. This jewelry making chain is also known as a Box Chain, Briolette Chain and Venetian Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Square Link Chain

STAR WEAVE CHAIN

Is made up of smooth round metal plates or bands with a slight curve at their mid point. They are tightly joined together to form a continuous flexible tube reminiscent of a snakeskin due to a slight zigzag effect. It has a virtually closed surface profile which makes for a very elegant and flexible chain perfect for displaying a pendant from. Unlike Omega Chain there is no underlying wire or mesh to support these plates. This jewelry making chain is also known as Brazilian Chain, Hexagon Chain, Round Maille Chain and most commonly Snake Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Star Weave Chain

SWAGED OR HAMMERED

Is a process used to manufacture or modify a variety of chain styles using a shaped tool or die. A shaping or hammering process is used to change or flatten the appearance of a cold metal into chain. 

TINSEL CHAIN

This chain starts life as a standard Serpentine Chain which is then soldered and hammered into an interlocking ‘s’ design, before being twisted to create the appearance of a nugget. This chain is also known as Nugget Chain and Twisted Serpentine Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Tinsel Chain

TRACE CHAIN

Is generally fine and delicate chain which typically has a uniform breadth and thickness.

An illustration showing a length of fine Trace Chain

TWISTED CURB CHAIN

Is constructed using a series of flat Curb Chain links which are then twisted to add extra interest. This design results in a chain with links that reflect light from different angles, giving the chain a sparkling appearance. 

An illustration showing a length of Twisted Curb Chain

TWISTED HELIX CHAIN

Is one of the simplest chains with uniform links. This chain can be produced in very fine widths creating a very delicate chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Twisted Helix Chain

TWISTED ROPE CHAIN

Is created from lengths of rope chain which are twisted together to form a single chain length which gleams from every angle. 

An illustration showing a length of Twisted Rope Chain

TWISTED SERPENTINE CHAIN

This chain starts life as a standard Serpentine Chain which is then soldered and hammered into an interlocking ‘s’ design, before being twisted to create the appearance of a nugget. This chain is also known as Nugget Chain and Tinsel Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Twisted Sepentine Chain

VENETIAN LINK CHAIN

Is much loved for its geometric simplicity. It is made from round wire rolled flat before being formed into square links that form open boxes or cubes, giving it a sturdy yet classically smooth, sleek and uniform appearance. This jewelry making chain is also known as a Box Chain, Briolette Chain and Square Link Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of Venetian Link Chain

WHEAT CHAIN

Not to be confused with Barleycorn Chain this intricate symmetrical Rope Chain is made from small figure of eight links which give it an almost square, plaited profile which puts you in mind of Harvest Festivals! It is typically made from four strands of oval and twisted oval links. This jewellery making chain is also known as Espiga Chain and Spiga Chain. 

An illustration showing a length of intricate Wheat Chain

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